My Portfolio Memoirs: Haunting Beauty

I vaguely remember this shoot actually happening but I recall the experience of skillfully working towards this test shoot and the moment in the make up room.  The wonderful Stylist, Tessa Wright had sourced some sensational choices, we'd chosen a model called Sam, I think but sorry to the photographer, I cannot think of his name!
My hair and make up input was created based primarily on the sheer nature of the Preen blouse and blonde, pale model; I was aiming for something quite monotone in all aspects which is why the photographer lit softly.  The chosen top was embellished and stunning, something unseen on the high street ten years ago.  The model had very, very long hair and a lot of it so I was keen on an up-do to show off the details in the lace collar, therefore, I began to section off the top part, put that aside, then slick the rest back into a ponytail and out of the way.  I then came back to the top by taking a hairband and partly pulling hair through it to the shape you see in the image, then stray hairs around the face I kept as is and even pulled some out of the loose ponytail for a slight veiled effect.
The complexion is almost dead-pan, no contouring, not even a distinct lip colour, just a line of shade cutting down the bottom lip.  At this time, I loved sculpting hollow eyes and used a bronze shade right up to the brows and plenty of eye liner. False lashes were applied but I became frustrated as they were not long enough.  Thinking on my feet, I took a pair of scissors and sliced through a small section of my hair.  Was I nuts?
While the hair dropped onto the tissue, the model, stylist and whoever else was in the room looked perplexed possibly worried.  I wasn't too sure this would work but I probably gave my hairdresser at the time a bit of a head start.
I twisted a few strands so that one end looked irregular, the other I snipped off evenly, then dipped into a small drop of Duo lash glue. Hands still steady, I held the lashes of locks at the centre of the lower eye and gently held it in place till it felt secure.  It was a moment of 'I need longer lashes' and it worked so I carried on, feeling more and more sure this was going to look unique, creative and be a winning image for my beauty portfolio as well as a step towards pushing my artistic boundaries to test and try the weird and wonderful ideas that would pop into my head.

If there is an image from my portfolio you'd like to know more about please get in touch.

www.nadiramakeup.com

My Portfolio Memoirs: Blue Eye

Blue Eye, photographed by Giorgio Kstakis

There are so many incredible and inspiring Make up Artists' with decades of experience, some of which I've had the pleasure to meet such as the awesome and technical creative genius, Sharon Dowsett and I've even made up the 'super' skin expert herself, Ruby Hammer for editorial shoots.  Their portfolios overflow with iconic images, precise and dynamic artistry, always catching my eye and curiosity; how did that 'look' come about?  What's the story?  Why use THAT texture there?  What's was the intention for applying a colour there in that way?  So many questions but we rarely get that insight.

Last night, while suffering a bout of insomnia,  I scanned through a Pro Make up Artist group and came across a comment regarding Val Garland's online make up school, Mastered.com.  Seems there are mixed reviews on whether an online masterclass, aimed towards working artists', would truly offer up valuable knowledge, practical tuition on application and techniques or just squeeze the purses of upcoming individuals via a glorified 'You Tube' like tutorial.  

I wouldn't want to get negative about Ms Garland, her work is innovative, clever and at times so artful it makes me wish I had been more confident throughout my career.  With this in mind it lead me to accept this online approach a very good idea to master make up to a brief, with a chance to make mistakes to then develop an understanding and purposeful approach towards a look, sometimes under pressure, just like the real world.  I would have relished in such an intimate class as a newbie, most likely thrived with more confidence too! 

The idea of such a make up maestro, I'd have online access to, showing me the thought process behind each and every application excites me further, as I am hungry to understand the narrative towards the final look, much like as in art exams where you include your prep work, makes sense to me.

I'd like to go through my archives for you every now and then to tell you about how the final image came about.   To begin with, this image of the Blue Eye was an idea I visualised in the middle of the night about 15 years ago, I remember the moment I scribbled a quick drawing on a post-it note placed beside my bed; a handy habit for my creative ideas.
Once I scouted a suitable model of Caribbean descent who was blessed with a smooth, cinnamon complexion and had approached the testing photographer keen to push his skills further, I knew we'd produce a number of beautiful images for our books.
Mimicking a lash shape along the eye lid was easy, it took minutes but finding the right shine to stay in place with a splash of colour but I experimented with lipgloss and MAC gloss in a tube, though finally settled on the consistency of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, originally created in the 1930's and today's iconic hero.  At the time my initial vision was of a peach-apricot shade on dark skin but instead I opted for a peacock blue eye shadow by MAC, from my rather meagre 'starting out' palette, which I'd crushed with the end of a make up brush then added to the balm-like substance to make a rather gloopy consistency and voila!
Back then the photographer shot on film, a painstaking process to some now but I miss it.  We'd sift through his edits from the shoot which would always be accompanied by lots of work chat, gossip and coffee.  We finally decided on 4 very strong photos all of cropped as much as aesthetics would allow, therefore, Blue Eye remained the focal point  in this instance (excuse the pun).
Some time after this image hit my portfolio and it became a signature image for me,  the photograph had been used without permission for an art scene coffee table book for a rather famous publishing house.  No, not even the photographer was credited, however, it proved to us this picture had strength and impact and so it remains in my portfolio to this day plus continues to receive much praise and the question I've been asked now for well over a decade, "What did you use on her eye?"

Probably the Best Deep Muscle Massage in London!

Almost 20 years as a Make Up Artist comes with a palette-full of downsides. I know, sorry to burst the 'most enviable job' bubble but when you stand for long periods of time (sometimes up to 12 hours and then some), carry heavy bags and cases full to the brim of tools, products and suchlike from job to job it puts an almighty strain on your body; mainly back, neck and shoulders.  I know us Make Up Artists' are not the only profession trying to avoid the use of support tights but how else do we ease the aching legs, numb crushing toes and lop-sided shoulders (yes, it happens!)

Lucky ole me, I was introduced to the Nail, Beauty, Massage destination that is Boutique Spa in West London and booked in for their one and a half hour Deep Muscle Massage using leading British Spa brand, ESPA , which hand on heart, is probably the best massage I've ever had!  An over zealous declaration you might think, however, how can I be so wrong after spending many years pouring into various treatment rooms across London, pointing out an endless list of aches, pains and stubborn knots to 'the experts', who have tended to pound at my weak muscles with pressue and vigour, leaving me wondering if more pain is really a good thing or should I be concerned.  I left Boutique Spa invigorated after 90 minutes with therapist Anna, who expertly massaged away my knots carefully without causing me more soreness or strain; it merely made me doze off due to her methodical massage technique using ESPA Fitness Bath and Body Oil, which she allowed me to choose according to it's qualities and scent.  The aroma was subtly soothing with a warm bite of Indian Bay and Clove Bud which washed over me as the perfect oil to ease my tension then drift into a Lavender haze.  In all, the experience made me want to go back for another Deep Muscle Massage on a regular basis and have more of the treatments on offer!

The environment is that of sheer elegance and calm, which when you think about it should be the ambience for beauty and pampering.  I was impressed by the wall of nail varnishes by OPI, Essie and Morgan Taylor displayed along one side surrounded by the Mani and Pedi stations and towards the treatment rooms where the waxing, facials and massage take place.

The other wall was an array of ESPA products ready to purchase and if you haven't tried this brand before, you must, it's nothing but pure luxury!









If ever there was a place best described as 'The Best Top-to-Toe Beauty Spot in London', then this is it!

Sephora, Beijing, China

Sorry for the absence of late....so by now you know I dabble in beauty and on a recent trip to Beijing I was lucky enough to visit quite a few Sephora stores to make the odd purchase too!

As you can see above I honed in on items I needed for my kit such as the flat liner brush, mineral buffing brush, lip gloss palettes x 3, 4 step buffer (so handy) and my first scoop, the lash comb, which is curved so easy to use, something I've been on the look out for that for years.   I also bought the pretty nail stickers which are becoming a huge hit in the UK and emerging to the Chinese market.

One day they were there the next gone!  Due to the Japan vs China political situation I couldn't get my hands on the Lunasol Eye brow Mascara in two shades, trust me I tried and all Sephora's had pulled anything remotely Japanese!!  As luck would have it, RMK actually stock 5 shades, yes, 5 so I shall be grabbing those instead (in the UK).

Here are a few other brands that took my interest..

CK One is back, back, back!

Some of you may not have realised there was ever a brand called CK One back in the 90's: us MUA's swooned over the unique formulas and textures.  I recall my creamy, smooth bronzer packaged in a clear and silver square case lasting me well including my other additions, often a talking point whilst working.
Well, they disappeared from our shelves after just a short shelf life but now it's back, completely reformulated, re-packaged, you name it, it's had an overhaul.
Here's one of my favs, Brow + Gel Duo 200 Foxy Redhead, not only for redheads but for those with reddy rich tones too.  The double ended nature makes me grin, I love dual performance products!!

Where do you buy CK One?

Debenhams instore or on-line 

Some do, some don't, some wouldn't, some airbrush!

There has been plenty of chatter between Make Up Artists' about airbrushing over the years, especially since HDTV took to our TV screens, in fact I remember there being quite a hilarious panic when really it meant 'work neatly, precisely, there is now 8 times more clarity'.  These days some do it, some don't, some wouldn't and some haven't found their ideal kit.  

I struggled for years contemplating the ideal airbrush gun and compressor for me, which sounds like a simple task but alas, I had the dilemma of my entire kit to think about practically.  Compressors aren't light weight and easy to carry. To my mind it's like carrying a generator in your kit and with back issues and an ever growing hair and make up kit averaging 15kg, I was keen to find an airbrush solution that was reasonably priced and not back breaking.

Many years ago, oh crikey, maybe even 10 years ago, I frequently used SKII's Air Touch Foundation on fashion photo shoots but mostly for Black & White photography work with various photographers such as Terry O'Neill, the late Lord Litchfield and John Swanell.  The nifty handheld pod was bite-sized, so I had no issues with keeping this in my work bag at all times.  The effect was good although at times limited.  It was often hard to control; one couldn't get a lighter touch for instance, it had to be one way and one way only.  Another downside was that the shades weren't always well matched and being an Asian brand some shades would appear a little too yellow or peachy, though I would always contour and swap the foundation inserts frequently to get achieve the desired effect.  It was good while it lasted!  

After about 7 years of researching, I finally came across a kit I thought would suit my needs.  It was compact, (yey) and the foundations that accompany it focused on ingredients such as Vitamins A and E, which improve the appearance and hydration in the skin, allowing the heat resistant Silicone to appear natural whilst actively longer lasting.  The brand is Airbase and has been in my life for almost 4 years.

I'm not sure why I've not blogged about Airbase till now, maybe its because there has been sudden interest, plus I assumed it was geared to being a Pro only brand but alas the public want to know more about Pro techniques and MUA essentials more and more.

Above is a lady I made up for a shoot recently and this photograph was taken a few hours after make up application...yes, lovely eye colour, courtesy of Front Cover Cosmetics but take a look at her skin.  From time to time I have people telling me, 'Oh yes, the make up used for TV and Magazines is heavier, right?'  Er, no!  But I often reply that my aim is for skin to appear as skin though flawless and merely enhanced.

Do I use Airbase in all my work?

No, but I get a feel for a job and lighting conditions etc and decide from that.  I originally egged myself to research yet again into getting an airbrush kit after working on a week long Pokerstars TV Ad, which was studio based with dramatic lighting, over 12 players a day and on average 17 hour days.  I thought, this is the type of job where an airbrush gun could really show its mettle and make life a little speedier for me with the added bonus of less 'touch ups' on set. (which makes the 1st AD very happy). 

What type of jobs have you used Airbase?

I've not only used Airbase for studio based work but would recommend it's use for Black & White photography, it is second to none.  I recently found the benefit of airbrushing for a bride and her upteen bridesmaids and mother of the bride too, this saved time and I knew the results would be received well.  I have also had the experience of working with burns and scar survivors, who have benefited from airbrushing when their skin is extremely sensitive, therefore, non-contact application can be such a relief.  I enjoy the reaction from well established actresses or ladies over 50+ who might have had a bad experience with airbrushed make up or declare it will make their skin look heavily made up, flat and add on years rather than take them away.  Once they see how the foundation helps blur imperfections without clogging the pores and diminish fine lines, they are in awe.

What do you most like about Airbase?

I like the results I get every time, who wouldn't?  It's fun to mix up the perfect shades and contour with such a nifty gun that is comfortable to hold and easy to determine the finish you want.  I would say high on my list is the fact the compressor is no bigger or heavier than a small bottle of water so I tend to keep all my Airbase kit neatly tucked away in a clear plastic make up bag along with 7 shades of foundation, 2 blushers, 1 bronzer, Primer, Mitt and Cleaning/Thinner solution. That's compact!

What do you most dislike about Airbase?

I'm sure most would agree that worst part about any airbrush kit is cleaning it but it has to be done in order to avoid any clogging or damage! Although a little fiddly at times, once you get the hang of it it becomes less of a chore, though it is always good to know the Airbase team are on hand to give you advice over the phone or via email and always happy to assist with technical issues.

Who would you recommend Airbase to?

It is not the cheapest addition to anyone's kit, so I would firmly say Pro's working for Brides, it might change your life and for those in TV, Film, Beauty, Advertising and Fashion it is another dimension and medium, therefore, another useful tool.