The Science of Organics.

Here's a little bit of background before I tell you about the actual products.  The name is Acquizhen, it is certified organic and sustainable skincare from Germany, which combines 'accurate science with the best of nature', something I find appealing and reassuring when the brand has been developed by Dr. med, Erich Schulte, an advocate of a holistic and traditional approach to skincare.  The term 'organic' gets a mixed reception these days and seems less of a buzzword, either customers declare they 'only ever use organic' due to their choice of lifestyle or perturbed customers grimace saying, 'I've tried so many and nothing works for me'. 

I'm unsure which camp I'm in, I certainly feel that as a Make Up Artist I am quite toxic from high use of beauty products so a little of what nature has to give is a bonus, though I do expect high performance from skin products, organic or not.

I have applied upteen organic products to my skin in the last few years and would admit to about 50% of them achieving some sort of remarkable effect, though all I am asking for most of the time is good hydration and to be truthfully organic.  What I mean by that is, some associations don't expect 100% organic, which is a tall order in any case but if you don't read labels well you might only be applying a product with only one organic ingredient.  Misleading and confusing, huh?

 Now, moving back to Acquizhen, I thought I'd tell you about the 'unsung heroes' and often the most unremarkable items in an organic range, firstly, Gentle Exfoliating Mask.  There are some exfoliators I have used in the past which have tended to be so gentle they make no difference or are too abrasive as they contain 'rustic' grains or seeds of some sort. Acquizhen Gentle Exfoliating Mask has a texture I was familiar with, it actually reminded me of Aapri, which I'd last used in the 80's, the texture was grainy but not harsh, the results were beyond my expectations.  I don't know about you but some 'gentle' exfoliators take a fair bit of elbow grease to clear debris, dead skin and eventually quite a few layers of skin which defeats the object but this products did kindly exfoliate, removing blackheads and blocked pores that riddle my skin from using hair products at work.  I'm impressed with my skins refreshed appearance and texture after use, one hopes this has something to do with Argan Seeds, Papaya and White Tea extracts among others active ingredients.  

I hadn't sampled many organic Night Creams so I was willing to bypass my usual routine for a few weeks and see what effect, if any, Nurturing Night Cream might take. The texture is that of a cream making me a little concerned I might wake up a little puffy as I am used to serums at night, but alas, this weightless cream was comfortable and absorbed well without leaving a saturated surface.  My skin woke up feeling soft and replenished, just as I'd wished and by looking at the list of ingredients I see Hyaluronic Acid, which is proven to be the great hydrator and Blackberry leaf, the unfamiliar extract 'which play a significant role in skin aging', I'll have some of that!

As much as I'm jubilant at discovering this well rounded brand there is one thing that impresses me a great deal and that is the high percentage of natural origin, vegetable ingredient and organic farming.  I am 100% impressed.

The Brightening Effect!

These Une Beauty Skin Glow pencils have become the neat and nifty products I rely on for quick touch ups on set or to accompany a brightening 'pick me up' for any face.  4 good shades all packaged into slim pencils also mean they are not going to use up much space, so I would say pretty handy for a long day or better still a long night out.
I tend to use these around the eyes and to rid those annoying dark shadows but this is truly versatile as it can be worn along the waterline, plus a few quick strokes around eyes, nose and chin, then a little blending, they add instant '8 hours sleep' results.  A stroke of genius!

De-potting Dior!

I feel like a weight has been lifted, in more ways than one.  I decided only last week to de-pot my very much loved Dior 5 Colour eye shadows compacts because, er, I haven't found them very compact in my work kit.
I have a number of favourite Dior and Guerlain compacts I regularly use on photoshoots, tv commercial and events that are packaged beautifully and always get a 'oooh', 'ahhh' response from clients but carrying my pretty eye colours have added a little too much weight and with my endless effort to downsize to a more efficient kit I had to bite the bullet and purchase a Scotty's Black Magnetic Palette from what is evidently becoming my second home, Guru Emporium!

A few nights ago, I watched a few tutorials particularly on removing Dior colours, chatted with Z Palette on Twitter and felt a lump in my throat at the thought of possibly destroying these beauty gems I'd grown so fond of.  My plan was to buy Z Palette, this seemed to be the most popular choice and I liked the clear cover, which I knew would be a time saver but during my visit to Guru I noticed only small versions that might only fit one compact.  I came across Scotty's Palette, this seemed much the same thing, although approximately £5 more than Z Palette but with empty metal pans.  Oh well, being slightly impatient about these things I bit that bullet and headed home with a Scotty's palette to remove the outer casing of each compact one by one.

I planned to do the hair straightener trick, this seemed simple enough on the first attempt.  I used a very small sharp knife to prize the metal pans, easy peasy!  I then tried this without heating the inner case, JOY, they came out quite easily, in fact, I did not destroy one eye colour, OVERJOYED!

I must admit the Guerlain compacts were certainly tricky and took more prizing and patience but all in all I am chuffed with the my new palette and now keen to muster up the patience to create a blush palette!

Some do, some don't, some wouldn't, some airbrush!

There has been plenty of chatter between Make Up Artists' about airbrushing over the years, especially since HDTV took to our TV screens, in fact I remember there being quite a hilarious panic when really it meant 'work neatly, precisely, there is now 8 times more clarity'.  These days some do it, some don't, some wouldn't and some haven't found their ideal kit.  

I struggled for years contemplating the ideal airbrush gun and compressor for me, which sounds like a simple task but alas, I had the dilemma of my entire kit to think about practically.  Compressors aren't light weight and easy to carry. To my mind it's like carrying a generator in your kit and with back issues and an ever growing hair and make up kit averaging 15kg, I was keen to find an airbrush solution that was reasonably priced and not back breaking.

Many years ago, oh crikey, maybe even 10 years ago, I frequently used SKII's Air Touch Foundation on fashion photo shoots but mostly for Black & White photography work with various photographers such as Terry O'Neill, the late Lord Litchfield and John Swanell.  The nifty handheld pod was bite-sized, so I had no issues with keeping this in my work bag at all times.  The effect was good although at times limited.  It was often hard to control; one couldn't get a lighter touch for instance, it had to be one way and one way only.  Another downside was that the shades weren't always well matched and being an Asian brand some shades would appear a little too yellow or peachy, though I would always contour and swap the foundation inserts frequently to get achieve the desired effect.  It was good while it lasted!  

After about 7 years of researching, I finally came across a kit I thought would suit my needs.  It was compact, (yey) and the foundations that accompany it focused on ingredients such as Vitamins A and E, which improve the appearance and hydration in the skin, allowing the heat resistant Silicone to appear natural whilst actively longer lasting.  The brand is Airbase and has been in my life for almost 4 years.

I'm not sure why I've not blogged about Airbase till now, maybe its because there has been sudden interest, plus I assumed it was geared to being a Pro only brand but alas the public want to know more about Pro techniques and MUA essentials more and more.

Above is a lady I made up for a shoot recently and this photograph was taken a few hours after make up application...yes, lovely eye colour, courtesy of Front Cover Cosmetics but take a look at her skin.  From time to time I have people telling me, 'Oh yes, the make up used for TV and Magazines is heavier, right?'  Er, no!  But I often reply that my aim is for skin to appear as skin though flawless and merely enhanced.

Do I use Airbase in all my work?

No, but I get a feel for a job and lighting conditions etc and decide from that.  I originally egged myself to research yet again into getting an airbrush kit after working on a week long Pokerstars TV Ad, which was studio based with dramatic lighting, over 12 players a day and on average 17 hour days.  I thought, this is the type of job where an airbrush gun could really show its mettle and make life a little speedier for me with the added bonus of less 'touch ups' on set. (which makes the 1st AD very happy). 

What type of jobs have you used Airbase?

I've not only used Airbase for studio based work but would recommend it's use for Black & White photography, it is second to none.  I recently found the benefit of airbrushing for a bride and her upteen bridesmaids and mother of the bride too, this saved time and I knew the results would be received well.  I have also had the experience of working with burns and scar survivors, who have benefited from airbrushing when their skin is extremely sensitive, therefore, non-contact application can be such a relief.  I enjoy the reaction from well established actresses or ladies over 50+ who might have had a bad experience with airbrushed make up or declare it will make their skin look heavily made up, flat and add on years rather than take them away.  Once they see how the foundation helps blur imperfections without clogging the pores and diminish fine lines, they are in awe.

What do you most like about Airbase?

I like the results I get every time, who wouldn't?  It's fun to mix up the perfect shades and contour with such a nifty gun that is comfortable to hold and easy to determine the finish you want.  I would say high on my list is the fact the compressor is no bigger or heavier than a small bottle of water so I tend to keep all my Airbase kit neatly tucked away in a clear plastic make up bag along with 7 shades of foundation, 2 blushers, 1 bronzer, Primer, Mitt and Cleaning/Thinner solution. That's compact!

What do you most dislike about Airbase?

I'm sure most would agree that worst part about any airbrush kit is cleaning it but it has to be done in order to avoid any clogging or damage! Although a little fiddly at times, once you get the hang of it it becomes less of a chore, though it is always good to know the Airbase team are on hand to give you advice over the phone or via email and always happy to assist with technical issues.

Who would you recommend Airbase to?

It is not the cheapest addition to anyone's kit, so I would firmly say Pro's working for Brides, it might change your life and for those in TV, Film, Beauty, Advertising and Fashion it is another dimension and medium, therefore, another useful tool.

And the finished look!

 Some time ago, I took you through my 70's inspired look just click here, lots of eye liner, mascara and fabulous products.
Well, now here is the finished article for Maximiliano Centini's Salon, which can also be viewed on my site (with a better crop) in the beauty portfolio!

Winter Warmer?

It is that time of year when I am dreading the cold, avoiding a cold and desperate to keep fit and energetic for work.

I take my daily dose of Thyroxine every morning before breakfast, which assists my Hypothyroidism, then I gulp a variety of supplements around lunchtime or in the evening.

Just a few...the usual suspects, Vitamin B6 and B12, Chromium, Viviscal, CQ10...

The recent addition and recommendation from a friend in the States, which apparently aids those with under active Thyroid or other Auto Immune Diseases, Maca Root.  This 'Peruvian Ginseng' is proving popular in the USA, dare I say as a libido booster but will it help my daytime energy levels?

So far, no signs of that but it has only been a few weeks and I've already been hit with a cold and cough which I put down to a change in weather.  

My immune system seems to be in a world of it's own.  I am generally good health-wise, I have to be, but I still unfortunately collapse from time to time due to Thyroiditis, which is when my body attacks the Thyroxine replacement.  No drama, I know the signs though I feel frustrated when these attacks steal my time.

Maca Root is best taken in powder form, or so the nutrionist says at the Nutri Centre and doesn't taste too bad when a level teaspoon is mixed with a half cup of water.  If anything it is a little sweet, almost like watered down honey so I'm finding I am taking it regularly rather than avoiding it.

Hopefully, I can give you an update soon and tell you that I am bursting with energy and not even a snivel or sniff of a cold!

Beauty Alert: The Perfect Red Lip Stylo!

Not many of you seem familiar with this German cosmetics brand but I have had the pleasure of enhancing beautiful faces further with a few key pieces in my kit for some time.  The Alcina Eye Brow Liner pencil is a must, a good neutral shade to fill in and create a spectacular arch along with the highlighter on one end, the duo make for precise brows.
But the Alcina Lip Stylo is most remarkable!  On looking at this shade of Hot Red you might think of it as an average red with an average finish.  Wrong!
The slim design means application is neat whilst the results provide lips with the perfect red, not too dark, not too orange with a velvet finish.  At only £10 this is beauty bargain, especially if you're an all year round  red lip wearer with a pinched purse from purchasing some of the leading brands that don't always result in 'getting what you pay for'.

After months of brimming with work and nothing warranting 'berry' tones, I finally applied the Alcina Lip Stylo in Light Berry for a recent Marie Claire shoot.  My model was fearful it might appear too dark and goth-like but I assured her, this colour would merely add a subtle berry hue and defined lip shape, which it did and so complimented her red and purple outfit for the photoshoot.
They say 'try before you buy' but trust me, these will not disappoint!

Front Cover Cosmetics Moon Dust

I'm falling in love with the Moon Dust loose powder pigment set from Front Cover and who wouldn't?

I haven't given these much of a chance on set but from what I've noticed already is that the pigments are true and once placed on eyes do not drop or dust off, which is great for a speedy, dramatic eye look.

I'm unfamiliar with the shade names as I've thrown away the packaging but there is a range of metallic blue, gold and bronze with weighty glitters you can add on top or use alone.

The blue...

and gold and bronze.

I shall be doing my utmost to use these again soon.

Sneaky peak at Dior!

As per usual, the limited editions are hitting the shelves soon and there are some very good ones out there, though I think Dior always get it right, especially with their super luxe palettes.  I still have one from a few years ago, the Jazz collection.  

Yes, its wrapped up in the finest packaging too. 

This could be yours shortly as its available from the end of October.