Friday 25 November 2011

My 'Painted' beauty shoot from start to finish.

I love my freelance life, being part of a team on set, plus seeing my portfolio grow with work I am proud of, though recently I have noticed my 'Celebrity' and 'Advertising' pages in my portfolio stacking up with new images but not my 'Beauty' page.  It has been some time since I have produced a beauty shoot for my book as work flows in and updates itself, I crave to occasionally go back to basics to rediscover why I took a leap into this profession in the first place almost 20 years ago.  Don't get me wrong I enjoy creating characters for TV commercials such as The Sun Bingo Bubbles and being closely involved in the process; attending meetings, making prototypes, researching etc, etc.  But I have felt the need to push myself further and going back to techniques, styles and a way of working I was once used to, with an immense passion for art.
A few months ago, I emailed the sensational, advertising photographer, Karan Kapoor, who I've worked with for many years, to ask if he was interested in doing a beauty shoot, captivating colour with a loose, painterly feel.  I sent references and my inspiration and prayed to get a positive response considering he is very much sought after in the advertising world.  He immediately said yes, phew!
The hardest task was to find the models, so Karan took this up and contacted the model agencies.  Every so often I'd be cc'd into an email or sent a large file of model cards from various top agencies to select two models, which doesn't sound too taxing but I had a specific brief and vision for this shoot, so we were prepared to wait some time to get the right girls, one dark, one blonde with delicate features.
About 3, maybe 4 months later, the date was set, studio booked, models chosen and I had gathered drawings and notes to redefine 4 definite looks.


Before the shoot day, I took the time to play around with colours on myself and to think outside the box with free reign.  Admittedly, I never worked well in the fashion world, all a bit too much for a sensitive type like me but I still have artistic flair and style.


I played around with textures as well as complimentary colours to see whether I could capture what I had imagined in my head and in my notes. Would it all be down to post production or my ability of trickery? Seeing as I started out in the 90's I hold the skills and conduct myself for make up that should be perfected before being put in front of the camera, as we used polaroid to check the lighting, then shot with film.  Today with digital, there are opportunities to play around a great deal in post and I am not opposed to this, it has its place but I never want my eye for detail to get lazy.


On the day of the shoot, the photographer, Karan, assistant, Dan, models, Egle (all pictured above), Rosie and not forgetting the my wonderful shining star, Tasha, all descended on a West London studio to create beautiful skin, splashes of colour with loose, free application.  My first look was on Egle, using neon colours from Belle Pierre, Sleek, Make Up For Ever and Illamasqua all applied with a light touch and close attention to flawless skin.


A closer look at some of the products I used!



Tasha, kindly prepped Egle's and Rosie's skin with QMS Medicosmetics Deep Cleanser and Freshening Tonic, then smoothed Sisley Instant Perfection to prime the skin before I brushed on Givenchy foundation and indulged in captivating colour.
Throughout the day, I covered more looks than I had hoped to, which was very exciting and I gave myself the chance to use my reliable and effective cosmetics such as Front Cover Cosmetics and Blink & Go to push the boundaries and to discover more from them, but there is no point in me droning on about the background goings on, here are some of the final looks.


'Painted 4' with model, Egle.

  
'Painted 3' with model, Rosie. 

I would love to know what you think, just comment below or view more at www.nadiramakeup.com 

Wednesday 23 November 2011

Sexy, understated beauty.

I know you all love a 'before and after', it's a great way to see the impact of a product, colour, effect.  I worked with hair maestro, Maximiliano Centini and photographer, Vic Singh on a recent shoot for the  salon.  Flora is the house model and kindly allowed me to show one of my transformations one her again.


Firstly, no base, just Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer on Flora's face.  Then a wash of Dior coppery bronze from the Golds 5 Colour palette over the entire eye area, up into the brow bone and lower lashes.  


I chose to use the deepest khaki shade from my Givenchy, Khaki Egerie Prisme into across the sockets.  These are lovely colours against grey, blue or green eyes and very much on trend!


I blended more of the khaki shades around the eyes, then added beige and shimmery yellow highlights to the centre of the lower lash line, plus a dab a shimmering pale gold by RMK Ingenious Powder Eye colour on the inner eye for a sexy highlight.  One coat of Diego Dalla Palma Semi Permanent Mascara gave lashes some separation and lengthening effect. I decided not to use individual or strip lashes to enhance Flora's features in a more natural way.


Now that the Givenchy Mattmate foundation was buffed on and sadly discontinued, (sorry), I also achieved brightening on the upper part of the cheek bones and around the eye area with Une Skin Glow Pencil.  Finally, you can see why I rave about this gem all the time.
Absolutely no powder was necessary on Flora's skin but to aid sculpting I applied Pixi Lumi Lux Bronzer, which gave a subtle sheen so skin appeared radiant, rather than flat and lifeless.


So as not to overplay the lips I kept it simple by dabbing a mix of MAC Gloss with a tad of Front Cover bronze loose eye colour from the Moon Dust collection.  This gave a subtle colour in similar tones to the eyes keeping the look groomed and understated.

Is this a look you would like to recreate? 

p.s. Look out for the final look soon!!!



A closer look at the transformations on the Fabulous Bingo TV Ad.

Some of the TV ads I work on tend to get a fair run but others are quick, snappy offers such as the recent Fabulous Bingo ad with characters Kate and Candi in a 'greasy spoon'.   As with all their adverts, Fabulous Bingo like to show a big reveal of Kate, the plain Jane type and the surroundings.


Kate, looking dreary, unkempt, though yes, the actress is naturally pretty.


Then the reveal to a polished, fashion concious Kate after signing into Fabulous Bingo online.  Notice the background change too!


Then the slightly stroppy Candi, rather 'Essex' style in lots of bronzer, lashes and lip gloss.


Then a not so groomed Candi.  Find out more at Fabulous Bingo!!!


My, my, my face!

I've admitted it before and will do again, I tend not to wear much make up, though I am passionate about cosmetics, I do consider myself an artist, therefore, I tend not to experiment much on myself.
However, when I was offered to try my face cosmetics and saw how they categorise their range into colours and shades to suit 'your face'.  It is a very simple way for consumer to decide on the correct shades specifically for them and on my quest to prove there are products out there for everyone, the challenge was set, could I find some basic products for me!?


I'm always riddled with dark circles under my eyes, especially at the moment with stress and lack of sleep!


The my face product I selected was Medium>Dark concealer, 311.  A decent yellow toned concealer in a super light formula, which concerned me, would it cover and stay put?


I dotted the concealer in the darkest areas. The colour match at this point was good, I was relieved the liquid didn't alter in colour as soon as it touched my skin, which for those of you with darker complexions would understand.  I then blended the colour with my ring finger, smoothed into all the knooks and crannies around my eyes.


Impressed?  I am. The concealer has brilliantly blurred my uneven shadows and brightened around my eyes.  Challenge one was complete so what next!


This warm 'neutral' palette of eye colours called Morocco appealed to me as I am somewhat keen on 'nudes', which can be the trickiest of looks to get right.  Why? Because some of us have pink, yellow or blue undertones and to perfect 'nude' one needs to compliment that.  The top shade is a cool beige, the second a coppery bling tone, then finally a deep dark bronze colour.


I applied the darkest shade over my eye lids with the minute applicator.  I would recommend using a larger brush, but a few sweeps and it was on very smoothly indeed!


This is quite a lot of make up for me at this point but what the hell, I wanted to try all the shades in the Morocco palette.  I dabbed the bling tone onto to the centre of my eye lid, then the cool beige was carefully applied to the inner eye as an additional highlight. 


I like to apply lip colour before cheeks sometimes, this helps one judge how much blush they really need, plus we tend to decide on a lip colour before blush anyway.  I had decided to use Medium>Dark, Rose Lip Pencil, a soft pink along with Medium>Dark Ooh Baby Baby, a fantastic nude with just enough beige and just enough pink.


I decided to keep this entire look in brown tones, so this blusher in Sul'tan' of Swing was perfect to contour and add a warmth to my cheeks.  As much as my skin tone is medium/dark asian skin with a yellow base, I abhor that 'no blush' look on asian ladies or any lady for that matter.  Why oh why leave blusher out of your routine?  The tones in our skin can make us appear flat and as much as we are darker than some, that additional pop of colour or depth is essential to reveal a complete look.


And here is the finished look, well within my comfort zone and most importantly, the my face range for Medium>Dark skin were the perfect match.
Have you tried my face and would you try any of these products I tried?

Now you can!  If you use code: "blogbling", you will receive a free Silver Screen Blingtone (£9.99 value) with the purchase of any other myface product (at least 1 myface item must be purchased to receive the free blingtone).
This code is valid till 31/12/11.

Tuesday 15 November 2011

Nothing compares to Diego Dalla Palma.

diego brand

You must of heard of Diego Dalla Palma by now, if not, then just pop over to Tesco Direct!
Yes, amongst the veg and ready meals comes a remarkably sophisticated cosmetics range from Milan, Italy.  I have been waiting patiently for Diego Dalla Palma to hit the shelves though I didn't expect it to arrive somewhere as accessible as Tesco.

The brand is, *ahem*, nearly as old as me, born in the mid-70's by, yes, the genius creator, Diego Dalla Palma himself, a superstar make up artist of TV and Theatre, with a flair and dedication to colour, texture and light, hence why the line is causing a stir amongst industry pro's here in the UK, while the Italian's roll their eyes at us as DDP, the brand has been their make up artists' haven for an impressive number of years.

How does one put it into words about how sensational this brand really is?
There is nothing comparable to DDP, no, there isn't!
Er, why the need to compare one brand with another?
Ok, maybe if I told you this iconic make up brand is the 'MAC' of Italy.  This may seem an outlandish thing to say but for those of you new to world of make up, MAC is not the only revolutionary and diverse brand. Shock horror! I may go to Beauty Hell along with all the discontinued products you or I have ever loved!
If there was ever a time to think outside the box and to try something new, then this is it!
I sense DDP was one of the first brands to push the boundaries of cosmetics and art, conjuring mixed media to make bold statements like 'make up is art'; you just have to feel the texture of the Wet Powder (out next Spring) and you might just understand.  Seeing as I do come from an art background the products inspire me.

Whitening anti age foundation SPF 30 /PA+++ high protection

I am slowly working my way through some of the DDP products, namely, Whitening Anti Age Foundation SPF 30, which on first use exceeded my pretty high expectations.  Firstly, I believe although labelled 'anti-age' it leaves a favourable finish to anyone, if anything, knowing the weightless liquid is boosted with SPF 30 makes for a very sensible purchase.  When I initially pumped the foundation onto my hand I thought it would suit drier skin types better but after trialling on youthful, oilier skins I would in fact recommend it to all skin types, in winter months especially.

SEMIPERMANENT TECHNICAL MASCARA

I am yet to experiment further and indeed I will.  I already have the best-seller, Semi Permanent Mascara which I am eager to try on photoshoots this week.

My final thought and unfortunately its a bit of a negative one; the complete range doesn't quite seem to have settled into its new home on Tesco Direct, which I might add is a bit higgledy piggledy.  It would be a sensible start for this high quality brand to be presented accordingly, with click-throughs that work to give it a good shot so as not to be pulled from the shelves due to poor sales.  Pull out all the stops and get the e-commerce tip top then you might find a remarkably smart beauty junkie ready to add DDP to their basket.

Saturday 12 November 2011

My latest obsession, Front Cover!

I have become a little obsessed and curious about how some of the other collections might look on me.  Although I have tried these on shoots, I haven't applied them to darker skin yet so I was keen to see the effects and styles I could come up with as a low maintenance make up wearer.


These are what I tested, Front Cover Top Drawer  collection a colourful array of chunky pencils you might initially think 'what a mixed bag!'  
I think, these are speedy essentials and a great way to add depth and dimension without the fuss of pots of loose glitter or pigments.


It was a relief to see all the shades show up, here's a run down on names and a brief description.  From Top to Bottom: Purple Durple - solid deep purple, Lemon - sour lemon glitter, Pine Needle - bold jade green, Chalk - ice blue shimmer , Moccasin - taupe gold and Drifter - bright metallic blue.



Complete with a Black Kohl Eye Pencil with Smudger on one end and ...


...a Double Penicl Sharpener, yes, they've thought of everything at FC HQ!


Firstly, I thought I'd select the brightest pencil, Pine Needle, which leaves a solid line and shows up on my skin.  It does remind me of what I've seen on X Factor's, Little Mix recently.


I then extended the line to a flick making for more impact and to elongate my eye shape.


I finished off by adding the shimmery pencil, Chalk onto the centre of the eye line and swept towards the inner eye.  I love it.  A confident flash of colour with a dewy highlight, quick and easy to achieve. There are so many options of where to go with this, I could have added the glittery Lemon pencil over the green line or even used Purple Durple as the starting point. 
If I had fancied going all out I could have drawn a glittery line with the Chalk or Lemon pencils for a sparkly eyeline, the possibilities are endless.
That was one look in the bag, now a sultry effect...


I started with Moccasin as a base. It glided on well and added a flattering sheen to my eye lids, something I would like to wear for everyday.


I incorporated Lemon to the centre of the eyelids, a glimmering effect that adds nicely for this sultry look.


To finish I smudged the Black Kohl Pencil along the lower lash line and for added smokiness, placed it along the waterline.  Smouldering eyes!


And a top view where you can see the sparkle!

There are more directions, hints and tips on the inside of the box with images too so you can perfect plenty more playful looks with precision.  This is an economical beauty must-have, now  I cannot wait to try more of the Front Cover sets, I am officially obsessed!
Available online or in store at Boots.

Thursday 10 November 2011

Blue is the colour!

Time and time again I am asked, 'What colour eye shadow would suit me?', 'Who does the best eye-shadows?' and 'Eye-shadows never show up on my skin or last, what would you suggest?'
The time has come to put one brand, yes, a brand I love to the test and also face my personal fear of bold eye colours on my dark complexion! *gulp*

In addition to those questions comes the issue of budget.  'But I can't afford those premium brands all you Make Up Artists' recommend in the beauty pages!'
I hear you and I am no beauty nazi!  I would rarely say there is no inexpensive solution because quite frankly, I know Front Cover Cosmetics. They wouldn't let me down, would they?


For a start, Front Cover kits are selling out fast which tells you something.  They are complete colour trends cleverly put together with clear instructions and suggestions, plus what is not to love about a kit that hones in one key make up trend directly from the catwalk.  
As you can see, Blue Eyed Girl is awash with blue hues, 3 (extremely velvety) eye-shadows with double ended applicator, a double ended mascara, Shadowline (one of my favourites) and finally a nail polish, in a beautiful midnight blue I might add.


One end a black mascara, a good staple product and a bright blue mascara.  I know what you're thinking, very 80's and can she pull it off? Will that show up on me?  Not sure but I'm willing to give it a go!


I love Front Cover Baked Eye-Shadows, they last and translate well in true colour so I was surprised to find these even more refined, smooth and velvety in texture. (top to bottom) Tie Dye, Bluesaceous and Silver Frost.  I know I am an expert but I have always had issues with blue eye colours on dark skin but from these tests, I was pleasantly surprised though I was most curious about whether Bluesaceous would look good on me as these blues on an Asian skin tone tend not to go hand in hand and hand on heart I have never worn a colour like this, I half expect it to look grey and wishy-washy!


It's a highlight for me to show you Shadowline, an innovative take on eye liner because you pick up the colour with the Shadowline tip, then glide along the lashline to create a 'mean' flick of intense colour. What's not to love!


One coat!  Just one coat of this stunning, dazzling deep nail colour in Singed.


I am sporting Tie Dye, the darkest shade applied with the eye-shadow brush (white end) and one coat of the black end of the Black/Blue Mascara.  Thoughts?
I love it but how far could I go?  Could I retain depth and recreate that 'on trend' A/W look?


I really could, by sweeping Tie Dye as close the the lower lash line, with the blending end of the applicator, dabbing Bluesaceous to the centre of the eyelids and a tad on inner eye, followed by Shadowline in the same colour to upper and lower lash lines.


Here's a side shot.  I have achieved the 'Blue Eyed Girl' look.


As I mentioned before, I was hesitant about Bluesaceous but I needn't have been.  Washed over the entire eye lids looked elegant against my skin tone and gave me an idea of how to wear my make up for a friends December wedding.


And a cheeky coat of the blue mascara added another dimension.  I have to stress, I love this blue mascara  applied over the black, it catches your eye with an unexpected pop of colour.


This set exceeded my expectations, especially as someone who is rarely drawn to 'blues' or intense colour on my skin, I tend to be a bright lip person but I have been converted.  It is at times easy for me to enthuse clients about the use of colour without fear, so my lesson is learnt and at only £12, I feel I have answered those common questions and plenty of my own.
Have you tried Blue Eyed Girl or other Front Cover Sets?
Available in all good Boots Stores.